The Alentejo is so very different to the Algarve in terms of landscape, not to mention the flora and fauna found there. I feel as though I am taken back years to an earlier time, when simple farming and nature co-existed on these huge, rolling plains. Our visits are invariably centred around the small town of Castro Verde and, it was here that we met Sue and Chris on an early start for our birding day on the plains. We got off to an excellent start by locating no less than three Long-eared Owls in their daytime roost, within the town itself. These obliging Owls are slightly smaller than a Tawny Owl with wonderful face markings and feathered ear tufts. I was surprised how tall and thin they looked but then, I have been looking at Eagle Owls too at the larger extreme! Leaving the owls to their days' sleep, we walked to a cafe in the town for a hot coffee. This was partly due to a mishap with our thermos flask on the drive up, which thankfully contained hot water and not milky coffee. It was also an amusing time to hear about Sue's cold scrambled egg and Chris's hot milky cereals at a local hotel. On then to Horta da Nora, the small lake on the roadside to Casevel. Mallards, Little Grebe a few sandpipers and a small number of Spoonbills. Strangely, we found some donkeys enjoying the waterside, rolling in the mud and wandering about. Chris and I were rather curious about the two grey ones and a little research was needed. These donkeys are the Provence Donkey. A domestic donkey from that part of France which for hundreds of years was used by shepherds. Carrying necessary equipment and supplies, these donkeys accompanied the shepherd on the seasonal movement of sheep, between the high Alps and the lower wintering grounds. By 1993, there were no more than 330 left in Provence. As our tour continued, there is always a feeling of surprise in this magical place. It is difficult to assess where birds are going to be and the sight of a male Hen Harrier, hunting in a shallow valley, was an excellent find. The dark trailing edge on the wing distinguishes it nicely from the Montagu's which will return here in Spring. Outside the small town of Entradas, a Spotted Redshank was found at a small lake together with Black-winged Stilts, Green sandpiper and many White Wagtails on the banks. We were having a good day, our species count was in the forties already. Red Kites were numerous in the sky and along the quiet roads, Common Buzzards sat on fence posts as we drove past. The fields had seen large numbers of Lapwings, Carrion Crows and flocks of Corn Buntings and Linnets were everywhere. Kingfisher and more Green Sandpipers were found at other small streams. Returning from Entradas by the same route, a large eagle was seen flying ahead of us. Although a little distant, it was soon made out to be a Spanish Imperial Eagle. Not a new juvenile I don't think, perhaps a little older. It had recently fed, judging by the filled crop which showed clearly. That was a great sighting and we continued our 'big bird' search as we went looking for Common Cranes. We came across our first flock of Cranes just outside Salto, twenty six birds seen here. Seeing a number of juveniles among them is always encouraging news. From the monastery at Aracelis, we found more Cranes in the distance looking North. A staggering number of wintering Cranes here. From several images, I have estimated this flock at around 320 birds, give or take the odd 'boulder' or two! It hadn't been the sunniest of days and with the afternoon light beginning to fade a little, we made our way back towards Castro Verde, ever watchful. A timely call out from Chris and we had located some Great Bustards in the final hour. Walking out between the rolling hills, one Great Bustard after another appeared, slowly feeding in a relaxed way. Ten bustards emerged altogether and we watched them until they finally disappeared over the next hill. Well, we certainly saw our 'big birds' and leaving a Black-shouldered Kite to hunt and Red Kites going to roost, we left the quiet Alentejo once more.
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